But even the most basic tracker now tracks your heart rate and will tally any activity that counts towards the 150 minutes of cardio the WHO, NHS, CDC, American Heart Association and others recommend. Fitness trackers used to be glorified pedometers, and by the number of articles still written about 10,000 steps you’d be forgiven for thinking they still are.
#Best fit bits upgrade#
You can see a huge difference in Scotty’s frame in Picture B-he’s relaxing down into the bridle and allowing me to ride him with light contact.Whether you’re considering buying your first fitness tracker or planning to upgrade your current one, it’s worth familiarising yourself with what’s available and what these devices can now do. Since we were at a two-day show, I switched to a milder, D-ring snaffle on day two. Read about it in my Herm Sprenger Bit Review. This is undesirable for hunter under saddle classes, and as a result we hadn’t been placing well.Ĭhief Rookie Aside: Changing my bit also transformed my horse. However, my horse Scotty didn’t seem to like it.ĭespite having virtually no contact with the bit, you can see in Picture A that Scotty’s head is tucked in, or behind the vertical. I was used to showing in a Kimberwick bit-they are very common in the Quarter Horse world, and it had worked well on my last several horses. The horse pictured below is a great example of how not every bit works on every horse. If you’re experiencing behavioral issues with your current bit, it helps to have a veterinarian rule out any medical issues that could be affecting your horse’s mouth. It is always a good idea to involve a horse trainer in bit evaluation and selection. A stronger-willed horse might need a bit with a little more “bite” to it. If your horse has “more whoa than go” you probably don’t need a severe bit to control him. Second, take the horse’s training and temperament into consideration. Generally, a snaffle bit is used for hunt seat riding (both on the flat and over fences) and a curb bit is used for Western-style riding-everything from Western Horsemanship to reining, contesting, and working cattle. Three main criteria should be considered when selecting a bit for your horse-the riding discipline, the horse, and the rider.įirst, think about the discipline you want to participate in with your horse.
#Best fit bits how to#
How to Choose the Right Bit for Your Horse The chain keeps the bit from rotating too far in the horses’ mouth. This is essential for the bit to function properly and ensures a comfortable fit for the horse. When neck reining, riders tend to use a looser rein and only make contact with the mouth when they are cueing the horse.Ĭurb bits also use a curb strap or chain. If the rider pulls back with 1 lb of pressure on a 5” shank, the horse will feel 5 lbs of pressure. The amount of pressure the rider exerts on the reins is multiplied by the length of the shank. The horse moves away from the pressure, to the right.Ĭurb bits can have similar mouthpieces to snaffle bits, but these bits have a shank that the rein attaches to. To turn right, the rider would move the hand to the right, touching the left rein to the left side of the horses’ neck.
#Best fit bits free#
The rider is using one hand, which leaves the other hand free for things like roping cattle. This horse is being ridden Western, with no contact-you can see the drape in the horse’s reins. *Note: All of these bits can be used for other breeds of horses, too! The next section focuses on “bit criteria” for selection, along with a few specific examples of these ideas in practice. snaffle, curb), as well as common bits seen in the Quarter Horse world. This article covers “bit basics,” including the two main types of bits (i.e.
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